Why Watching Football in Belgrade is amazing
Belgrade is a city where football is more than just a game. It’s a way of life. The intense Eternal derby between the capital cities’ two clubs (Red Star Belgrade and Partizan) is world famous for its hostility and animosity, making it one of the world’s most feared derbies. Earlier this year, I embarked on a journey to the Serbian capital to experience it for myself. Watching football in Belgrade is a must-do.
This guide will provide you with all the essential information you need when visiting Belgrade for football. Furthermore, showing you how to experience football like a local and immerse yourself in the local culture. I will aim to help visitors with buying tickets, navigating the city, giving safety advice and accommodation recommendations. Watching Red Star Belgrade at the Rajko Mitic Stadium was an incredible experience. This guide will make your trip unforgettable.
Belgrade football at a glance
Belgrade is home to two legendary football clubs: Red Star and Partizan. This guide will predominantly focus on Red Star. Match tickets are available at the gates or on the club’s official website https://crvenazvezda.iticket.rs/en.html. The majority of matches take place in the afternoon or evening. Our visit was in August, and temperatures exceeded 35 degrees, so keep this in mind when planning your trip. Safety is dependent on the opponents, with derby day being the riskiest occasion of the season for tourists.
The Rajko Mitic Stadium is well connected by public transport. From the city centre, you can use UBER alternatives such as CarGo, and YandexGo, which are established travel apps in Serbia. Make sure you carry cash for gate tickets, food and drinks once inside the stadium.
- Teams: Red Star Belgrade, Partizan Belgrade
- Stadiums: Rajko Mitic Stadium, Partizan Stadium
- Ticket Prices: £3-£15
- Transport: Bus, Taxi, Tram
- Where we stayed: Skadarlija (Airbnb)
Matchday at Red Star (Rajko Mitic Stadium)
The Rajko Mitic Stadium is named after club legend Rajko Mitic and has a capacity of 51,755, making it the largest stadium in Serbia. On arrival at the stadium, you could feel the tension in the air. It was a first for me to be greeted by tanks and the military at the football game. This immediately alerts you to the stark reality of the unpredictable nature of Serbian football fans; danger and violence are a real possibility. For years, I had wondered how watching football in Belgrade would be, and now I was about to find out.
The atmosphere here was electrifying and so different to anything I’ve ever experienced inside a football stadium. The fear and tension created by these fans is famous for a reason, ranging from intimidating Ultras, graffiti and the ear-shattering noise of the Topovski Udar (designed to simulate artillery or mortar fire during tactical training). This translates to “cannon strike” and most definitely lives up to its name. The Rajko Mitic is a pressure cooker on the verge of erupting into chaos.
I realised immediately that this was going to be a unique and crazy experience. The raw passion and emotion displayed by these supporters was something I never could have anticipated. The unparalleled passion of the Red Star faithful makes for the most thunderous atmosphere I have ever experienced.
Atmosphere Inside The Rajko Mitic Stadium
The war-like mentality of the Ultras was clear for all to see. During the game, the deafening noise of the “Topovski Udar” set off near the stewards. This left an innocent matchday worker rolling around on the floor, clutching his ear in pain and distress, but everyone remained entirely unfazed by the situation.
During the game, numerous political banners were displayed by the supporters aimed towards the people of Montenegro. The Red Star ultras believe their influence transcends football and can influence politics. The game itself was a constant bombardment of loud noises and incredible football chants. This cauldron of an atmosphere works in favour of the home team as they won the game 1-0.
Sitting in the West Stand gives you the best view of the Ultras, watching their choreography and tifos led by one man with a megaphone was something to behold. It mirrored watching an army prepare for battle. Pyros filled the air and skies with a red fog, constant chanting, drums and flare guns created a special atmosphere that echoed through the stadium, sweeping through the streets of Belgrade. This bear pit of an atmosphere ensures intimidation for opponents and away supporters. Scarves were purchased as an insurance policy in the hope of blending in.
Matchday Tips
Arrive at least 60-90 minutes early to get the full experience when watching football in Belgrade on a matchday. Give yourself time to do a lap of the ground where you can look over the stunning rooftops of the city, whilst also seeing the Red Star training ground. We were lucky enough to watch the sunset over Belgrade, descending the city and us into the matchday madness.
It is essential to look in the club shop to get yourself some memorabilia and dive into the culture, becoming a Red Star fan for the day! Learning a few Serbian phrases like “Hadje Zvezda!” (“Let’s go Star”) will enrich your experience and further your plunge into the Serbian football culture. Being part of the crowd means you can contribute to one of the most scintillating atmospheres in world football. Visiting local bars near the stadium is a great way to soak up the pre-match energy and get yourself prepared for the game.
More things to do in Belgrade
If you have any spare time in Belgrade, visit Kalemegdan Fortress near the city centre. The Belgrade waterfront is a must-do and is great for nice bars and restaurants. The Dubai-like waterfront boasts stunning visuals and feels as if you’ve time-travelled to a futuristic dystopian future due to the modern architecture. Explore the local cafes and bakeries in Dorcol for a taste of Belgrade life. Check out the heart of the city and visit the Republic Square, which is the central hub of the city.
Bonus activity (weather dependent):
If you visit Belgrade in the summer months, I highly recommend going to Ada Ciganlija, which is a vast lake in Belgrade with stunning views, bars, restaurants and water based activites, great for cooling off and relaxing in the Serbian summer heat.
Perfect day for Football Fans In Belgrade (Itinerary)
Morning: Explore the city centre and have breakfast at a local cafe or bakery.
Afternoon: Either spend the day in the sun at Ada Ciganlija or go and visit the Kalemegdan Fortress.
Evening: Attend the match and immerse yourself in Serbian football culture, soaking in the chants and incredible atmosphere.
Night: Walk along the Sava River and then head to the heart of the Belgrade Waterfront. Visit authentic bars and restaurants whilst reflecting on what will have definitley been an unforgettable evening.
Overall Matchday and City Ratings
| Category | Score (1-10) |
| Atmosphere | 10 |
| Fan Culture | 8 |
| Ease of obtaining Tickets | 10 |
| Safety & Comfort | 5 |
| Value for Money | 10 |
| Local Beer | 8 |
| Overall Experience | 8 |
Belgrade is an essential bucket-list destination for any passionate and thrill-seeking football fans. The adrenaline you feel when visiting the Rajko Mitic Stadium on a matchday gives you a feeling that very few places on earth can provide. Watching Red Star only enhanced my desire to watch football in more crazy locations; I think it can do the same for those of you reading, too. Watching football in Belgrade is not for the light-hearted.
For those seeking a peaceful and relaxed football experience, this intense atmosphere may not be for you. Belgrade is an amazing city to visit with lots to do at an incredibly low price, making it worth visiting even if you have no football interest.
Travel & Accommodation
The Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport is well-connected to major cities across Europe. I flew from London Luton and return flights cost me £90. To compare routes and prices from your closest airport, visit https://www.skyscanner.net/. Once you have arrived at the airport, you have numerous options when seeking transport to the city centre, such as Taxi’s and buses.
Where I Stayed
I stayed in an apartment 300m from Skadarlija and 1000m from the Republic Square. This apartment was booked through Airbnb and was in a perfect location, only a 10-minute car journey to the Rajko Mitic Stadium. Airbnb prices in Belgrade are lower than hotels and provide great value.
Link for my specific accommodation below,
https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/3664594?viralityEntryPoint=1&s=76
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