Why watching football in Seville is a must
When people visit Spain for football, they often think of Real Madrid and FC Barcelona first. Seville is an underrated gem for football and a stunning city worth visiting. Seville is home to two of the biggest clubs in the country, Sevilla FC and Real Betis. I ventured to the heart of Andalusian culture to watch football in Seville and experience these two clubs for myself while also immersing myself in the rich and vibrant culture of the city. Watching football in Seville is an adventure every football fan should embark on.
While exploring the city, I visited the Estadio Benito Villamarín (Real Betis) and the Estadio Ramon Sanchez Pizjuan (Sevilla FC). I had the privilege of watching Real Betis defeat Real Sociedad 3-0 under the lights. On my travels, I also took the opportunity to dive into the illustrious history of Sevilla FC with an incredible stadium tour.
The city of Seville is divided by these two Spanish giants who often compete to be the ‘best of the rest’, outside of the big 3 clubs, Real Madrid, Barcelona and Atletico Madrid. The city is divided between these two giant football clubs, which creates an intense rivalry twice a season that is unrivalled.
This comprehensive guide to football in this amazing city will give you everything you need to know when travelling to Seville or looking for inspiration for your next trip. From how to buy tickets, navigating the city, giving safety advice, accommodation tips and constructing an essential daily itinerary that you can follow. My trip to Seville provided me with my favourite European adventure. The passion this city has for football is something to behold, only fuelling my desire to continue my travels watching football across the planet.
Note to be aware of: When I visited Seville, Real Betis were playing their home fixtures at the Estadio Benito Villamarin. As of today, Real Betis are playing at the Estadio de La Cartuja. This is due to the renovation of the previous stadium.
Clubs in the City- Sevilla FC & Real Betis
Football is massive in Seville, and the ‘El Gran Derby’ is universally viewed across Spain as one of the fiercest rivalries in the country. In Seville, you are divided into two categories: a ‘Sevillista’ or a ‘Betico’. This divide across the city shapes its culture on Derby Day, where the city transforms. Football in Seville is deeply ingrained in the local communities, and the support for these teams is evergreen and passed down through generations.
The two clubs have contrasting histories, with Sevilla having a significant presence on the European stage. Sevilla FC are the record holder of the Europa League with 7 titles. Their most recent conquest was in 2023 when they defeated Roma on penalties. Sevilla’s domination in this competition is best represented by their record-breaking three Europa League titles, with triumph coming in 2014, 2015 and 2016. Real Betis are yet to taste any form of European glory, but got close when losing the 2025 Conference League Final 4-1 to Chelsea.
Both clubs have a poor domestic history, with just one La Liga title. Sevilla also leads Betis 5-3 when comparing Copa Del Ray titles. Sevilla have also won 1 Spanish Super Cup along with 1 UEFA Super Cup. The head-to-head records also favour Sevilla with 66 wins to the 41 for Betis.
Despite Sevilla’s historical dominance, there has been a resurgence for Real Betis, who won their first major title in 17-years. Manuel Pellegrini guided Betis to the Copa Del Rey in 2022, defeating Valencia on penalties. In recent seasons, the best team in the city are those in green and white. Sevilla narrowly avoided relegation, finishing 17th last seasons whereas Real Betis finished 6th and qualified for the Europa League. Real Betis are also higher than Sevilla in the La Liga table as of today.
Both clubs have successful academies, with Sevilla producing some of the former leading global superstars. Sergio Ramos, Jesús Navas and Carlos Marchena. Sevilla and Spain legend Sergio Ramos has recently reached an agreement in principle to purchase his boyhood club. Sergio Ramos is leading an investment group to oversee an estimated £400m takeover. The club has been facing significant financial struggles with large amounts of debt. Ramos is looking to rescue his club and bring the glory days back to this sleeping giant.
How to buy tickets for Sevilla FC and Real Betis
Buying tickets for Sevilla FC and Real Betis is very achievable if you prepare correctly. Using the official club websites is the easiest way to obtain tickets and also the safest method to use.
- Real Betis- https://en.realbetisbalompie.es/tickets/
- Sevilla FC- https://entradas.sevillafc.es/
The difficulty of purchasing tickets for these two clubs varies significantly depending on the opposition they are playing. When the city’s two clubs play each other in the ‘El Gran Derby’, tickets sell out very quickly and ticket prices skyrocket on third-party sellers. On my visit to Real Betis, I watched Betis host Real Sociedad, winning the game 3-0. Games against Real Madrid, Barcelona and Atletico Madrid command higher demand, which leads to higher prices.
Fixtures outside of the derby and the three clubs mentioned previously are much easier to get tickets for. Tickets are available for a much more reasonable price when Real Betis play against other Spanish clubs. So, for optimal ease and cheaper pricing, I highly recommend targeting other fixtures. Midweek games and night games also present visitors with the opportunity to go to games as demand is lower.
For Sevilla, the same rules apply. Sevilla has a smaller stadium, which means that tickets can be harder to acquire, but it’s nothing that preparation can’t solve. Make sure you regularly check ticket sale dates.
Alternatively, you can look to buy tickets through reputable third-party sources. These websites provide a ticket service whilst also giving you the option to book accommodation as part of the package. I would highly recommend using P1Travel, which helped to facilitate my fantastic trip to Seville. The website was smooth and easy to use, providing a range of football tickets all over Europe.
My trip to Seville also offered me the opportunity to experience a stadium tour at the Estadio Ramon Sanchez- Pizjuan. I delved into the club’s history as a way to further my understanding of the club’s culture and appreciate the amazing success of this historic football club. Seeing the array of European silverware that the club has acquired over the years was extremely impressive. Getting to walk out on the pitch like a player, exploring the conference room, and changing rooms gives you a great insight into the club. Transferring your mind and capturing your imagination for what a matchday looks like.
Tickets for this must-do activity can be purchased via the two links that I will provide below.
Prices based off my own travel:
- Match ticket prices: £30
- Stadium and Museum tour: £10
Stadium Guides
Both the Estadio Benito Villamarín (Real Betis) and the Estadio Ramón Sánchez Pizjuán (Sevilla FC) are located close to the city centre and are just 3.2km apart.
Sevilla FC: Estadio Ramón Sánchez-Pizjuán
The Sevilla FC stadium is located in the commercial area of the city centre, positioned within the Nervion district in the heart of the city. The stadium is a 10-minute walk from Seville’s main train station (Sevilla- Santa Justa) and can be reached by metro line 1. The stadium is located parallel to the Nervion District shopping centre, which is great to visit pre-match to get some food and drink.
My hotel (Melia Lebreros) was very close to the Sevilla stadium, so I walked, but there are numerous methods of travel.
Real Betis: Estadio Benito Villamarin
The home of Real Betis is located in the Heliopolis district, in the southern part of the city. The stadium is located 4.5km south of the city centre. The easiest way to access the stadium is to take bus routes 1, 2, 6, 34, and 37. If you wish to take the train, then go to the Sevilla-Virgen del Rocío, which is a 1-mile walk to the stadium.
For my Real Betis trip, I walked along the waterfront for 2 miles and stopped for some drinks with the Betis supporters to soak up the pre-match atmosphere.
Real Betis Matchday Experience
The Real Betis stadium (Estadio Benito Villamarin) is named in honour of the former successful club president who ran the club from 1955 to 1965. He is remembered for leading the club back to the top division, stabilising its finances and purchasing the stadium in 1961. The stadium has a total capacity of 60,721, making it the 4th largest in the country.
The sheer size of the stadium is something to behold and appears as a beacon for the surrounding area, guiding its staunch followers home. As I approached the stadium, I was met by an overwhelming noise and swept away by a sea of green. The stadium is not the most visually impressive from the exterior; its grey concrete structure is plain and less colourful than its city counterpart whos vibrant red stadium is far more eye-catching. Before entering the stadium, I made sure to implement my matchday ritual and buy a club scarf.
Despite the dull outside, the contrast within the stadium was stark. The green of the stadium seats ignited the matchday. The atmosphere was electric before kick-off and continued throughout. The family feel to the club displayed the deeply ingrained passion these supporters have for their club. The atmosphere behind the goal led the chants and dictated the tempo and noise levels within the stadium, like a conductor with their choir.
The anthem was sung as the players walked out of the tunnel. This display of support was fueled by an enormous sense of pride and passion for their team. For decades, Betis have been the underdogs within the city, but the tide has changed. Betis are the best team in Seville at the moment, with a sense of fight and determination that is embedded in the fan base from their years of fighting to reach the levels of their arch rivals.
The Real Sociedad supporters travelled in low numbers, and usually, the away fans have a huge impact on the atmosphere. The rivalry between sets of supporters and the light-hearted animosity spark stadiums into life. Betis didn’t need this; the unwavering support these fans have for their team translated onto the pitch, with the players responding with a fantastic performance, winning by three goals to nil.
The raucous celebrations of the supporters were only amplified as each ball hit the back of the opposition net. Green flares filled the air with a ‘Betis’ style mist. This atmosphere was unique, as Betis flooded foward creating chance after chance, the tension built. The Benito Villamarin Stadium was a stadium on the brink of eruption, and when it did, I was not disappointed. Betis produced one of the most powerful roars I’ve heard for a goal.
The walk back to the city centre among thousands of supporters discussing the game and residing in the local bars was great to experience. The Betis supporters are fantastic and welcoming to anyone willing to support their team; the twelfth man in the stands does everything they can to get their team over the line.
Tips for a Real Betis Matchday
I am very rigid and particular when visiting a new stadium. I believe you should arrive around 90 minutes before kick-off. This gives you enough time to explore the ground, interact with locals, immerse yourself in the football culture, try local street food and buy a souvenir from the club store or local street vendors.
By arriving this early, you can experience all of this while also getting into the ground to watch the two teams warm up and prepare for battle. If timing allows, try to watch Real Betis to experience one of the most generous displays in modern football. On the final home game before christmas the Betis supporters take part in the annual “Peluchada” (Teddy Bear Rain). At halftime, thousands of supporters throw toys onto the pitch simultaneously. The Real Betis Foundation collects and distributes these toys to disadvantaged children, hospitals, and shelters across Andalusia. This tradition only enhances and further demonstrates the family-friendly vibe and speaks volumes to the mindset of the club from top to bottom.
Experience the pre-match scarf and anthem ritual that is defined by an enormous synchronised display of club identity and local pride. The official anthem begins with a distinctive violin solo over the stadium speakers. As the anthem begins, the entire stadium stands in unison, holding their green-and-white scarves high, chanting ‘Betis’ at the top of their lungs. You have to be in the stadium to experience this, don’t miss out.
Pre-match social traditions consist of fans gathering hours before kick-off at local bars along Avienda de la Palmera in the Heliopolis area. The universal fan tradition of welcoming the team bus is huge here, too. Thousands gather, lining the streets of southern Seville to show the last bit of support they can before the players enter the stadium.
What to do in Seville Between Matches
After watching football in Seville, you should explore the rest of the city. Read below for my top tips for other ways to enjoy the city.
Seville was one of the most aesthetically stunning cities I have ever witnessed, with its incredible architecture and unique Andalusian culture. There is an abundance of things to do, ranging from the Royal Alcazar to the Plaza de España. Seville is not a city defined by football, and it offers so many amazing opportunities and activities to do and sights to see.
Seville is a great city to explore on foot or by bike. The city offers a blend of Andalusian culture, historic landmarks and vibrant street life. Visitors should explore the narrow streets of the Barrio Santa Cruz, watch authentic flamenco and enjoy tapas food.
Below, I will attach pictures of various landmarks I believe are worth visiting, with captions and a link so you can look further into them (If interested).
Visiting Plaza de España Between Matches
Catedral de Seville: A Must-See-Historic Landmark
Why You Yhould Visit Setas de Sevilla
These were my personal favourite three attractions to see in Seville, and if you have spare time, I would highly recommend visiting.
Perfect day for watching Football in Seville (Itinerary)
Morning: Start the day early by beating the crowds and visiting the Royal Alcazar. Afterwards, visit the Seville Cathedral and Giralda Bell Tower.
Afternoon: Enjoy authentic local tapas in the Alfalfa quarter. Walk to the Plaza de España and enjoy the stunning architecture in the nearby areas. Walk along the Guadalquivir River to see the 13th-century Gold Tower.
Evening: Before heading to the football game, go and experience the breathtaking views at the Setas de Seville. Take a walk along Avienda de la Palmera in the Heliopolis area and get yourself a drink before the game.
Night: Go and experience the electric Real Betis atmosphere and enjoy what will undoubtedly be an amazing experience. Head back to your accommodation and reflect on your amazing day.
This itinerary is based on my personal experience, which consisted of a night game.
Overall Matchday and City Ratings
| Category | Score (1-10) |
| Atmosphere | 9 |
| Fan Culture | 9 |
| Ease of obtaining tickets | 10 |
| Safety & Comfort | 10 |
| Value for Money | 10 |
| Local Beer (Cruzcampo) | 8 |
| Overall | 9.5 |
Seville is a hidden gem that any football lover would be lucky to experience. The authentic and passionate Andalusian culture, combined with amazing sights and atmospheres, comes together to create a trip of a lifetime. Real Betis are a special football club, and experiencing a matchday at the Estadio Benito Villamarin was something I will never forget. Watching football in Seville is special!
For football supporters who prefer a more authentic and passionate football experience, Seville is perfect. With its chill city vibe and stunning architechture it is an ideal location for all visitors, especially those with a passion for watching the world’s greatest sport across the planet.
Having read this, hopefully, I have inspired you to embark on a trip to the most underrated destination in Europe.
More reading:
Travel & Accommodation
The Seville Airport is located 15-20 minutes from the city centre. I recommend travelling by taxi/Uber as this is the quickest method and costs only 20 euros. The city is generally very walkable, and I recommend walking, as it is a great way to explore due to the city’s compact, pedestrian-friendly nature, with all major landmarksclose to one another. I flew from Manchester Airport with the return journey costing £90, but prices vary depending on the season. My visit took place in February, which is a cheaper time to visit.
To compare routes and prices from your closest airport, visit https://www.skyscanner.net/, which is my personal go-to when booking flights to get the cheapest rates.
Accommodation & Best Areas to Stay in Seville
For this trip, I stayed in a 4-star hotel near the Nervion Plaza shopping centre called Melia Lebreros, which was a fantastic hotel but on the pricier side. The holiday was booked through LoveHolidays and cost £350 for travel and accommodation.
Link Below to Accommodation:
If you are looking for inspiration for your next football-charged city break, click below for more:
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